Vigan Sinanglao

vigan sinanglao.jpg

We learned something at Vigan’s Barangay Pagpartian (butchery/abattoir/slaughterhouse), home of the city’s matadores or partidor (Ilocano for butchers), and fountainhead of the best longaniza and bagnet, including the ones we love to order at eateries we frequent in the area. Sinanglao (a good breakfast food) is not a staple at the carinderias around Pagpartian, but we were advised to go to Gloria’s Sinanglaoan at the corner of Calle Liberation and Calle Gov. Reyes.


At Gloria’s, the soup of mixed internal organs, becomes street fare. Fresh bile (papait) and a lavish serving of suka ti sili (Ilocano chili in local vinegar) accompany the soup.

Other than Dayo in Batac (sinanglao there is from Sinait, Ilocos Sur), the Southern Ilocos soup is not basic here in Norte. Our version is paksiw (innards are cut smaller).


Do like the Ilocanos do when in Ilocos.

suka ti sili.jpgpapait

Bile anyone?

© Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2016

Sunday Best: El Sto. Cristo Milagroso de Sinait and Sinanglao Lunch

St. Nicholas of Tolentino Parish, Sinait

Reny and I found ourselves in Sinait, Ilocos Sur, on a Sunday morning. It was our initial visit at the Sto. Cristo Milagroso Sanctuary, St. Nicholas of Tolentino Parish. A fine day!

Devotedly referred to as Apo Lakay, the Miraculous Statue of the Black Nazarene and Badoc’s  La Virgen Milagrosa were believed to be drifting in the sea when they were discovered by fishermen in Dadalaquiten, Sinait,  in 1620. The story of the two statues will very well fascinate you if you are an avid follower of the Catholic faith. In the time the Virgin Mary was moved to Badoc, the Apo Lakay remained in Sinait and keeps attracting pilgrims from across the country.

Across the old church, we walked to the hilera of turo-turo eateries. They are the same carinderias that travel to the “Dayo” of Badoc and Batac on certain days.  Have I told you, turo-turo means point-point? Literally, you point to the viands of your choice. The food is native Ilocano, with lots of meat alongside monggo gisa, pinakbet, inabraw, native pancit, rabong and a lot more. I satisfied myself with a hot bowl of sinanglao (a term used by the south for paksiw) at Luzminda’s Kitchenette. I had to ask around for good sinanglao. The pieces of beef were rather chunky. The sourness of the soup was typically Ilocano with a lavish dose of sukang Iloco. The lady let me taste her beef tapa. Yum! It didn’t look fried like we do ours.

I hope you’ll like the photos. A beautiful week ahead, everyone!

St. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishSto. Cristo Milagroso ShrineSto. Cristo Milagroso Shrine - St. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishEl Sto. Cristo Milagroso de SinaitSt. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishSt. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishSt. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishChurch BellsSt. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishSt. Nicholas of Tolentino ParishA TreeCarinderias of SinaitLuzminda's Kitchenette, SinaitTuro-TuroPancitBeef SteakDinengdengLuzminda's KitchenetteSinait Sinanglao
Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Beyond the Old-World Calle Crisologo

Calle Crisologo

I was born and raised in northern Ilocos. Occasionally, I post about my visits to southern Ilocos.  I am hankering to visit more often to learn more of the other half of the Ilocos equation — its history, culture and the ancient traditions that always fail to be buried with the past.

The old adage holds true: You reap what you sow. The UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recently awarded Vigan, the quintessence of Ilocos Sur, the “Best practice in World Heritage Site Management” in the 40th World Heritage Convention held in Japan. The convention centered around “World Heritage and Sustainable Development: the Role of Local Communities” which gives the award more meat and texture for it manifests the fruition of the local community’s unified struggle in preserving their heritage and defining their identity.

UNESCO describes Vigan as “Established in the 16th century, Vigan is the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia. Its architecture reflects the coming together of cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines, from China and from Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape that have no parallel anywhere in East and South-East Asia.”

Here are some of the things that are uniquely Ilocos Sur’s.

Ilocos Sur Tricycle

Tricycles that don’t look like either space ships or lowered sports cars:) Notice the embossed nikelado adornment in both the exteriors of the tricycles and calesa.

Wines of Ilocos Sur

The salamagi (tamarind) wine.


The Southern Ilocos cuisine is worth exploring. Among the indigenous fare is sinanglao, a soothing soup of beef innards flavored and tenderized in bile and pias (kamias).

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013