My foodie Brandon just knows where to bring his fellow foodie and self-proclaimed burger connoisseur mom.
When most mom and pop shops went shaky due to uncertainty, here came another burger shop. Last year, on the brink of a pandemic, the guys of Badmaash plus chef Geovanny Delgado introduced classic burgers (at least in looks), but full of surprises, like the Hickory bacon burger has that pleasant tangy flavor all too different from the cultish Apple Pan’s, and the simplest burger on the menu, hamburger, appears as neat as In-N-Out’s, but is strikingly seasoned with kicking flavors uniquely theirs. Cumin and coriander in an American burger? It’s that Indian representation that makes it not just another burger. Multicultural Los Angeles just got another bead in its string of arguably the world’s best burgers.
My latest burger experience was well worth the trip to LA’s District La Brea.
My sister asked me to meet her for brunch at Trois Familia on Sunset. I didn’t have to google the place for Sunset has become my park. It stands on an unpresuming strip mall. The long line especially on Sunday mornings hinted good food. But it actually took me more walks before realizing it’s an eatery; at one point I thought it was some clinic, forgive me.
I finally get to dissect Trois Familia. It opened only in October. Trois comes from its three chefs Ludo Lefebvre, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (the last two ring a bell ‘coz I also always pass by a full-packed Jon & Vinny’s, on Fairfax, a street that has also become so familiar to me). I learn there’s also a Trois Mec and a Petit Trois on Highland. And Familia is (probably) the apt second name for what it’s all about — a homey space, communal tables and French Mexican fusion brunch and lunch only. I admire the use of enamelware, something that conjures a provincial vibe similar to that of tacos and churros.
My sister ordered a hash brown chilaquiles with a cotija-sprinkled sunny sideup and lively salsa macho that gives just enough kick. It opened up the palate for more — a galette crepe infused with chorizo and topped with a nice runny egg and avocado milk, and a churro French toast with a scoop of Salt & Straw vanilla ice cream and lots of cinnamon. I liked every dish, flavorful but not heavy.
The menu is eclectic with duck confit, beet tartare tostada, chicken Milanesa, nachos, poached egg omelette sandwich, tres leches birthday cake, etc.
It’s in Silver Lake and the space is not too big, and no reservations here, so you have to go early.
See you on Sunset!
Trois Familia 3510 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026 (323) 725-7800 Open 10am-3pm