We learned something at Vigan’s Barangay Pagpartian (butchery/abattoir/slaughterhouse), home of the city’s matadores or partidor (Ilocano for butchers), and fountainhead of the best longaniza and bagnet, including the ones we love to order at eateries we frequent in the area. Sinanglao (a good breakfast food) is not a staple at the carinderias around Pagpartian, but we were advised to go to Gloria’s Sinanglaoan at the corner of Calle Liberation and Calle Gov. Reyes.
At Gloria’s, the soup of mixed internal organs, becomes street fare. Fresh bile (papait) and a lavish serving of suka ti sili (Ilocano chili in local vinegar) accompany the soup.
Other than Dayo in Batac (sinanglao there is from Sinait, Ilocos Sur), the Southern Ilocos soup is not basic here in Norte. Our version is paksiw (innards are cut smaller).
Do like the Ilocanos do when in Ilocos.
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