Special Feature: Chef Nic Rodriguez is back to his roots

Chef Nic Rodriguez

Where in the Philippines can you find a Les Roches-Switzerland and Culinary Institute of America-New York-trained chef de cuisine who matures his own bugguong, using only seasonal taburkik fish and pure Ilocos sea salt, and churns it with a paddle made of a specific kind of wood, as he says, “it has to be molave,” and grows his own epazote, kutchay, karimbuaya, etc., and cooks only RC 160 rice?

“The enigma of my life,” Chef Peter Nic Rodriguez starts off after I pop the initial question, “Why Ilocos?”

When I left Candon at the age of 8, I told my yaya, “Uray kitam, agsubli ak tu.” Sure enough, he arrives home to put meaning into his realm of cooking.

Devilish Chocolate Cake

With a passion to the core of his being, Chef Nic Rodriguez runs his own Bistro Candon Resto and Catering specializing in genuine Ilocano cuisine in the company of universal favorites. With all his credentials on the wall, he keeps his insanity sane, so to speak, by constantly developing new recipes and planning and servicing a most diverse clientele. He’s done spreads for high profile weddings across Ilocos, along with intimate and village gatherings. Tourists from neighboring cities go out of their way to seek Chef Nic’s sanglao, dinengdeng, pinakbet, lomo-lomo, doy-doy/diniydoy, morton/morcon and bagnet (descibed as nasisi nga usto in the vernacular) and served with the most ambrosial bugguong ever! A saliva-inducing bugguong that triggers the thought of summer Ilocos mangoes dipped in bugguong mixed with extra dark sukang Ilocos! 

Bistro CandonBagnet with KBL, Chef Nic Rodriquez styleIlocano Meal

“It’s the simplicity,” he counters to my “What sets Ilocano cooking apart from the rest?” Pinakbet is his favorite Ilocano dish while fried vegetable lumpia (spring roll) is his comfort food.

Rellenong Bangus

- I’ve been craving for rellenong bangus for about a week now. I was so thrilled to see it in the menu! Brought home all my leftovers for the family.  Back in Laoag, the first time I didn’t hear negativity from a food-know-it-all hubby and son. The carrot cake slathered with authentic standard Swiss buttercream frosting and the decadent old-style chocolate cake fashioned from a 1978 UP recipe, but of course, amplified by Nic’s own gustation, are well-deserving of the accolades from the press.

NaimasBagnetAuthentic Standard Swiss Recipe Buttercream Frosting

All the highly esteemed calories were worth all the long hours I spent freezing inside a Partas bus to and from Candon, Ilocos Sur.

*Bistro Candon is located inside the Four Brothers Compound, Candon, Ilocos Sur, Philippines. Open Mon-Sun, 7 AM-6 PM. Tel.Nos.: (077) 7425905 Mobile 09178055500.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Cabugao’s Kusina Ilocandia

Kusina Ilocandia, Cabugao, Ilocos Sur

I first heard of this “native resto” from the hubby. Following in his footsteps is wonted.

Pinoy Christmas Decor

We actually got famished on our way home from San Juan. The Savellano-owned Cabugao restaurant is a good roadside eatery, located between Laoag and Vigan, serving old time favorites packed with local flavors. The ambiance is suggestive of an Ilocano ranch-style home.

Opia A La Mode

-I especially loved the wicked opia a la mode, a simple dessert of vanilla ice cream on a sweet crackling fan-shaped barquillo down a stream of chocolate syrup.

Pindang

-Pindang is a local term for dried fish. This kind is atypically not salty, nice with sukang Iloko sawsawan (Ilocano vinegar).

Kusina Ilocandia

-(Clockwise) Ilocos longaniza (Ilocano sausage links), garlic mushrooms, Pinoy pork BBQ, miki (soup). The longaniza were tiny, really bitin. The hearty miki was huge, though, that I had to share it with the hubby.

The service was good, quick, and for the boozers, brown bottle is cheap. Warning: Don’t drink and drive.

Kusina Ilocandia National Highway, Cabugao, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

Cafe Ilocandia’s Asian Food Festival

Stuffed Tomatoes and Salmon sushi

After a series of changing hands and facelifts since it opened its doors in 1983, the coffee shop of the Fort Ilocandia, the only 5-star hotel in the North, continues to serve discriminate lovers of food. I like its latest name the most — Cafe Ilocandia — what a better way to celebrate the Ilocano culture!

Ilocano specialties like dinakdakan (grilled pork/pig’s face, red onions and ginger, slathered with pig’s brain and Ilocano vinegar), kilawen a kalding (goat meat ceviche), swam, (goat innards with bile aka papaitan soup) utong and fish paste salad stood on equal footing with Asian favorites like sushi, siomai, tempura, pancit, lechon, Mongolian barbecue, and some not-quite-Asian dishes like stuffed porkloin with prune sauce and cheese-stuffed tomatoes in their most recent Asian Food Festival.

Ilocano FoodKilawen na Kambing and DinakdakanSwam (goat innards with papaitan)
Looking like broth in the photo, the swam soup.
LechonLechon ("best pig ever!")
Nothing compares to crackling lechon (whole roast pig) skin with blood sauce.
sushi and siomaiMongolian BBQ Rice
My peewee Mongolian BBQ rice with shrimps, fish and chili bean paste.
Food TripMango Crêpe
Crêpe with sweet and succulent Philippine mangoes.
Cafe Ilocandia Asian Food Festival
Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

Within comfort zone

Regional Cave Committee (RCC) Meeting Memorandum of Agreement (MOA) signing

Despite inclement weather in Laoag, the LEAD Movement tried to make it to Burgos to witness a historical first in the Ilocos ecotourism scene. After nearly a year of cave explorations, assessments and trainings, in hopes of promoting Burgos as a spelunking adventure destination, the joint undertaking is sealed with a Memorandum of Agreement (MOA) during the Regional Cave Committee (RCC) Meeting, organized by the Department of Natural Resource (DENR) and Protected Areas, Wildlife and Coastal Zone Management Service (PAWCZMS) Region I Offices, chaired by RED Samuel Peñafiel, CESO III, on August 23-24, 2012.

May the partnership between Burgos (led by Mayor Cresente Garcia) and DENR for co-management of the Burgos caves be the start of well planned/supervised/monitored multisectoral ecotourism projects that are sustainable and, most importantly, improve the well-being of the community.

More power to the DENR Regional office for their tireless efforts and invaluable contribution to sustainable tourism through ecotourism, the promotion of responsible nature appreciation/adventure, the empowerment of local government units and encouragement of people’s participation in the province of Ilocos Norte.

Chinese tourist in a photo op with the Provincial Director, Police Senior Superintendent

Our visiting Chinese friend Lee Zeng Peng tagged along. He requested a photo op with Provincial Director Senior Superintendent Marlow Chan. He loves Ilocos Norte so much that he’s back in the country after his first visit exactly a year ago. He speaks neither Filipino nor English, so I communicate through hilarious sign language. However, the hubby speaks his language, so Zeng doesn’t get lost. I’m surprised, he loves pinakbet (mixed local vegetables stewed in fish paste. It comes from the word “pinakebbet” which literally means “allowed to shrink or wrinkle”), and enjoyed the igado (a popular pork meat and innards dish – mixed with canned guisantes, or green peas, green and red bell pepper slices, sauteed in flavorful liver sauce).  I’ve tried the young restaurateur’s cooking before and it’s on the bland side. He was happy to see Burgos’ picturesque places in a video presentation at the meeting.

Chinese tourist eats pinakbet and igadoIlocano food -- Grilled chicken, pinakbet and igadoWaste Segregation seen in Burgos

Something new in the Burgos Town Hall compound. Hoping proper waste segregation becomes a part of everyone’s system, in the entire town of Burgos, the province and the country as well.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

100% organic and natural Inabraw aka Dinengdeng

Ever wondered why the thrifty character of an Ilocano is celebrated? One logical explanation is because he eats rehashed fish and grows his own veggies.

You may want to try cooking our yummy soupy inabraw (aka dinendeng). Here’s how:

Ingredients:

  • marunggay (moringa) leaves
  • saluyot leaves (Corchurus or mallow-leaves)
  • sabong ti parya (bitter melon flowers)
  • grilled or fried fish
  • 3 tbsps fish paste (bugguong)

Preparation:

  • Bring grilled or fried fish to boil in 3 cups of water.
  • Add bugguong until liquid boils
  • Add vegetables and remove caldero from heat as soon as it boils.

Now you’re ready to serve the Ilocano dish and in fact, an unavoidably ubiquitous dish in Ilocos. Backyard vegetables like marrunggay, parya, saluyot, tabungao, pechay, camatis, kabatiti, pallang, uttong, carabasa, among many others, are 100% organic and cheap, and more often than not, free.

Grilled dalag (mudfish), paltat (catfish), tilapia or galunggung (mackarel) make the tastiest inabraw. Another lovely abraw is a combination of murrunggay, cabatiti (sponge gourd or loofah) slices and sabong ti carabasa (squash flowers).

Ilocos bagoong is all-natural, with monamon fish fermented in salt. The best bugguong is aged in burnay.

You get to hear “Inabraw manen?” as often as you smell the fish paste boiling. The smell can reach as far as one block away — a telltale sign that an Ilocano lives in the neighborhood:)

Note: Cook before serving. Cooled inabraw is so unappetizing.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

A stop by Candon

Orange Tree

I’ve said it time and again, the charm of Ilocos comes from its laid-backness… the quaint towns, the vast spaces, the low standard of living that allows families to be able to send their children to school, the children’s naive smiles, and a thousand more reasons in my book. Hope it will remain livable for as long as I live.

We stopped by Candon for snacks. Candon is the other progressive city in the province of Ilocos Sur, though there are still several remaining old houses like those in Vigan City.

The Candon Plaza is a popular stop for tourists. Brown calamay (coconut shreds made with sticky rice, tagalulot or molasses), white calamay (sweetened with refined sugar), cornik and Vigan bibingka sell fast.

The dancing fountain by the plaza is so aliw. Opera music then Bad Romance, shades of Chicago Millennium Park, soothing on a hot summer’s day:)

Candon white calamayCandon calamay and cornikCandon brown calamayCandon PlazaDancing fountain at the Candon PlazaAlleyPinoy barbeque

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012